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The History of Sexy Lingerie - Staying Abreast of the Silhouette
Ah, the female silhouette. It can really vary, can't it?
And it really has - over the ages. What's been acceptable
to society has changed from one extreme to the other - and
back again. But the silhouette has been governed by what's
draped over it. And throughout history, it's been adorned
in many different ways, with different areas accentuated
along the way. Women have worn everything from a heavy whalebone
contraption with laces and pulleys, all the way to the light
silky sexy lingerie of today. To try to make some sense
of the transformation of the silhouette over the years,
let's look at the history of sexy lingerie - why it changed,
and how it changed.
The first "lingerie"? When we think of sexy lingerie,
we think of light, thin material, usually see-through, draped
adoringly over the female body, covering just enough to
titillate the impressionable male. But well before Christ,
on the island of Crete, in the Mediterranean Sea, women
were very bold. Their idea of lingerie was a boned bodice
corset, designed not for support, but to tease men, by pushing
their breasts up and out, literally exposing them in their
entire splendor. Although they achieved the "sexy"
part, the "lingerie" part was nothing like what
we think of as lingerie today.
Throughout time, as each vision of the silhouette emerged,
clothing was created to fit and accentuate this shape. There
were, of course, two main elements in a silhouette - the
bust and the butt. Some societies wanted the bust to be
prominent, while some felt that the butt should be the "point
of interest". One thing that's never changed is that
we're at the mercy of the fashion gurus - whatever they
say is in, that's what we wear.
The silhouette goes from profound to padded Society in
the Middle Ages felt that the silhouette should be restrained,
especially the breasts, which they thought should be firm
and small. In those days, women wore many styles of corsets
over their dresses, all with the similar purpose of flattening
their breasts. And in case some men didn't notice this flattering
flattening, some women actually attached small bells around
their neckline - the jingling bringing attention to the
jiggling v.
During the Renaissance, the Spanish fashion experts saw
the silhouette as padded - in all the right places. They
wanted to see women with cone-shaped breasts, flat stomachs
and narrow waists. And women went to great lengths to achieve
this look - more than reasonable lengths, as we see it today.
They actually had to have other people dress them because
the cinching up of their corsets was done up their backs
and required a lot of strength. In fact, they were trussed
and bound tighter than a Thanksgiving turkey.
This unnatural shaping of the silhouette was met with disapproval
by proponents of good health. Doctors complained that these
corsets compressed women's bodies so tightly, their internal
organs were being squeezed, and their ribs were being pushed
out of shape. It was quite common for women to swoon and
faint - usually attributed to the females' delicate nature.
Actually, it was because they just couldn't breathe! There
was one report of a woman who actually died when her ribs
were cinched so tightly that they pierced her liver. Wow
- the cost of looking sexy!
By the 18th century, life was becoming lighter, and clothing
trends followed. Although the whalebone structure of the
corset still kept women tightly silhouetted, there was a
definite movement to incorporate the artistry that marked
the era. Corsets were decorated with beautiful embroidery,
ribbons and laces. And that wasn't the only thing that drew
male attention - they also pushed the breasts up, threatening
to jump right out.
Later in the 18th century, people started rebelling against
many things and corsets were no exception. Again, doctors
spoke out about the dangers of these body presses. And this
time they were heard - enough to actually have boned corsets
outlawed.
The softer silhouette is highlighted By the early 1800s,
the silhouette was still enhanced, calling for the support
that the old corset had given. So the corset returned, but
with more elaborate methods of construction. Boning was
still used, but in smaller sections, allowing for more movement.
And since the fashion of the day was for a more separated
look for breasts, a corset-maker named Leroy came up with
a model he called a "divorce". (Perhaps it was
named that because by the time the husband got it undone,
he'd lost interest! And separation does precede divorce,
doesn't it?) But seriously folks, this problem of lacing
and unlacing was met by corset designers - they developed
systems that allowed women to undress themselves.
During the 1840s, with the much-exaggerated silhouette
for women, whalebone came back into use, but this time with
huge hoops and crinolines, covered with all kinds of fabric
and trim. In those days, a man knew he'd found a fashionable
woman if he could put his hands around her waist. And because
women were still trying to attract men, they cinched themselves
up even tighter.
The hoop-and-crinoline look was soon replaced by the soft-S
silhouette, still using the corset, but adding the bustle
to the back. Now they'd created an exaggerated bottom. This
was fine, except women had to stand a lot because most of
their butts were covered by the cumbersome bustle. Of course,
the men liked this because it gave them more opportunities
to view those sexy bustles.
As fashion design became more innovative, more varieties
of corsets were created. Now you could get a lightly-boned
corset for the morning, a boneless corset for the beach,
an elastic corset for horseback riding, and a jersey corset
for bicycle riding. With all the activities women participated
in, think of how many corsets they would need!
The corset is extended - then expended By the end of the
19th century, the corset had become a supporter not only
of breasts, but of the newly-created stockings. Stockings
were held up by garters and suspenders attached to the corset
- a very complex system of rigging.
By the beginning of the 20th century, corsets were being
laced down as far as the knee. But many people didn't like
that style, and fashion designers were leaning towards an
uncorseted, more free-flowing style. Sexy lingerie was about
to take a whole new turn. With the advent of the industrial
revolution, and the invention of the sewing machine, Germany
and France opened the first corset factories.
In 1913, Mary Phelps Jacob created a new type of bra. It
was much softer and much shorter than a corset. And it allowed
the breasts to be shaped in their natural state. When too
many people started asking Mary for her design, she thought
she'd better get it protected. So she applied for a patent.
She eventually sold this patent to Warner Company.
After World War I, women began to enter the workforce and
corsets were definitely not appropriate for wear in factories.
They needed shorter skirts made of cooler and lighter fabric
that was easy to care for. The other factor was that the
war had taken its toll on their supply of men, which meant
more competition in landing a man - they needed to look
their sexiest!
Then came the Roaring Twenties, with it's elaborate parties.
Fashion changed dramatically - the boyish silhouette was
in. The quest for flat chests and stomachs, and straight
hips and buttocks, led the fashion industry to create the
liberty bodice, the chemise, and bloomers - loose-fitting
and light. And a long-overdue substitute for plain old white
appeared - pastel colored lingerie. The first brassieres
were designed to flatten the breasts, adding to the total
boyish look. The corset was no longer needed - except the
bottom part that held up the stockings. So the corset was
shortened right down to a belt - the suspender belt.
The 30s brought back the full-figured silhouette The 30s
brought with them a complete turnaround in the shape of
the desired silhouette. The woman's feminine side once again
became the priority. Women were encouraged to look well-proportioned,
full-figured, but still reasonably slim in the hips. Now
women had a full set of lingerie to outfit themselves -
a breast-enhancing brassiere, an elastic suspender belt,
and the girdle, that kept all the curves in the right places.
One of the biggest advancements in the lingerie industry
came in the 1930s, when Dunlop Rubber invented Lastex. Lastex
was an elastic fiber that could be interwoven with the fabric
used to make lingerie fashions. Now the industry could make
lingerie in various sizes, to properly fit a woman's shape.
But then came World War II, and with it, its shortages.
Germany couldn't import the fabrics they'd been using and
their industry dried up. People started making home-knitted
underwear out of anything they could find. Not very sexy,
to say the least. But they were warm.
After the war, lingerie consisted of the basic bras and
suspender belts. This was the norm for most women. But the
teenage girl, emerging from the oppression of the war, and
looking for excitement, became a target market. These teenagers
were anxious to grow up, and wearing lingerie was a big
step towards getting there. So the lingerie industry started
to create lingerie sets that would attract the attention
of these young girls. And the German lingerie industry exploded.
Over in America, the lingerie industry was making its own
mark. Everyone was trying to create something new and different.
The market was flooded with all kinds of innovations to
help women look sexy. For example, Howard Hughes created
a new bra - a special wire-reinforced design for Jane Russell.
(Was that the one that got her the Oscar for "Best
Support"?)
The silhouette suffers as bras are burned As the 60s brought
a wave of women's emancipation movements, feminists burned
their bras. It's ironic that they had lots of support for
this movement, because now that they'd burned their bras,
their support was gone. And, later in life, they'd find
that their support sagged.
This movement gave the lingerie industry a heavy hit. Many
manufacturers were forced out of business. But on the positive
side, Lycra had just been invented, and women's legs began
to be adorned in tights or, even better for the men, the
sexy little mini-skirt. And with the mini-skirt came a demand
for bikini briefs.
By the 1980s, wire-reinforced bras had become the number-one
seller. For those who need that added support, these are
still very popular today. Probably the biggest seller now
is the push-up bra.
Today's silhouette varies in shape - but always looks good
in sexy lingerie Think of how far lingerie has come - from
the push-up corsets of ancient Greece, to the push-up bra
of today. The history of sexy lingerie proves one fact -
some things never change. Obviously, the purpose hasn't
changed - women still want to look sexy. The only thing
that has changed is the method.
We now have a society that allows much more freedom than
in the past. We have lighter, lacier, sexier fabric. We
have more liberal ideas of how much can be bared. And of
course, the men are all for it. So the goal of the lingerie
industry remains the same - to create an image of a woman
who's desirable and sexy. And if you look at all the sexy
lingerie websites, you'll see that the industry is achieving
its goal. Right guys?
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